As the end of summer hiking draws near (actually it was over a month ago), a sunny and warm late October day offered one more nice day of hiking this year. I set my sights on My Rainier NP, and drove to the east side of the mountain. Crystal lakes and peak. An absolutely perfect day of hiking. Clear skies, 70+ degrees, no bugs, and just a few other hikers on the trail. Its a nice climb to the old lookout (no remains) with 3200’ elevation and 3.8 miles one way. The trail is almost without rocks and roots; oddly smooth almost the entire way. Great for trail running (I didn’t).
About 1.3 miles up, there is the junction to the lakes (left), or to the peak (right). I went up to Crystal peak first, and then on my way down I turned right at the junction and went up to the first lake. Its 1000’ elev up and 1.1 miles to the lake from the junction.
The soft glow from the late afternoon sun spread over the lake valley as 3 Wood ducks drifted at the far end. The slightest ripple moved over the water as the oddly warm, late October breeze swept across the lake. No sound except the gentle rustling from the tall, dry grasses along the lake shore. I sat on a log eating my lunch, watching as this scene unfolded. After a few minutes, the sad realization that I had to leave soon descended. The thought that this place, this feeling will remain until next year gives comfort in facing the months ahead.
Here are some pictures—
Small Crystal lakeAction shotCrystal Peak trailThe elusive Pika. Meeeeep!
Another walk around Rainier in 6 days. Wonderland #8.
I started at the Frying Pan trailhead (aka Summerland trailhead), and walked counter clockwise.
Camp 1 – Mystic Lake. 14.4 miles.
Mystic Lake camp
Other pics from the day—
From skyscraper pass Near sunrise
Day 2–Mowich lake. 14 miles.
A long downhill followed by a steep uphill to Ipsut pass. Followed by drunk hikers at Mowich lake camp. The drive up camps (about 10), are next to the backcountry camps (also about 10). Here are pics from the day—
Typical trail near MysticCarbon riverTop of Ipsut pass-looking eastMowich lake camp-nice outhouses
Day 3—Golden Lakes camp space #2. The hills on the wonderland trail always impress me. Hiking the whole 93 miles in 6 days is like hiking Mt Si twice a day for six days with several more miles thrown in. This was day 3 of the hike, and the short day (10 miles). Here are some pictures—-
About half way to Golden lakesGolden lakes patrol cabinZpacks tent- space 2 golden lakes
Day 4- Devils Dream camp. 19.1 miles. The first of the long days. The weather was still mostly cloudy and cool. This is the day I noticed exhaustion slowly creeping in. Here are a few pics from the day—-
Lots of fungi in September
Climbing above the clouds-nearing Emerald ridge. Some bridges are falling apartSuspension bridge over the Puyallup? RiverIndian Henry’s hunting cabinAlmost to Devils dream camp
Day 5–20 miles to Nickel Creek camp. A quick stop at Longmire for a snack. A rest at reflection lakes with car tourists. A whole lot of big hills; up and down.
Great leaning bridgeRock trailNear box canyonOver box canyonRoad to box canyon was closed…no car touristsLast camp at Nickel CreekThe loo. Trail was only 25 feet way. Entrance to camp
Day 6–15.5 miles. Up and over Cowlitz divide, and Panhandle gap. Somewhere around 7000 of vertical. The sun was out all day, which made it more tiring, but way better views. Out to car by 4:30 pm.
Meadow on Cowlitz divideTrail with Mt AdamsThe mountainBridge at Indian Bar- no cocktails at this barIndian bar shelterDrying shoes, then up and over panhandle gap. Panhandle gapCruising by SummerlandMEEEEP! Pika
Thats it for my 8th Wonderland trip. Once again…what did I learn? First, camping at 5000’ in September requires a warmer sleeping bag. Second, securing a pillow to your sleeping mat is must. Third, Dont camp at Mowich Lake (too noisy). Fourth, cotton sweat towels are nice, but rarely dry in cloudy, cool weather. Fifth, always bring a little sunscreen. Sixth, there are aggressive hornets and yellow jackets in September (I was stung 7 times). Probably a good idea to bring a little benadryl cream.
This walk around Rainier was interesting, but as always, I found myself hurrying through the dense forest areas. Unfortunately, on the first couple of days anyway, there were very few views once I reached elevation.
Next year I will hopefully do another circle. Clockwise this time. Permits are getting more difficult as this seems to be more popular than when I did it the first few times (first time was 1998).
Ive heard of post-trail depression by long distance hikers. It’s interesting that while hiking, and in the midst of a strenuous endeavor, muscles ache, your tired, and thoughts meander towards being home in a warm bed, but as soon as you get back to the comforts of home, the longing to be back on trail begins. This longing causes a mild depression or low mood for a few days (probably long if you’ve been on a multi week hike).
When time doesn’t allow a more involved hike, I go climb Echo Peak. Close to home, in the woods and only 1/2 mile long. 400 ft of elevation gain in 1/2 mile is near the gold standard of 1000 ft per mile.
The road trail
My first record of climbing the Echo was 08/2019. This was when everyone was freaking out about Covid, and I needed to find a place to get away. Plenty of odd encounters on the “closed” trail during that time. People jumping off trail with their mask pulled up high and tight. I was told more than once to “mask up.” I’m glad that it behind us.
GPS trail map
The above is a section of the Echo Peak trail. I don’t always keep a track, but maybe 90% of the time I do. Each line indicates a walk up or down the hill. This is all tracks since 2019.
View from top of Echo Peak
The leaves are starting to turn already, and the nights are cooling just a bit. Soon, Mr Sun will be hiding behind the trees to the south and west and the drops of rain will come for their 8 month visit. Before that happens, I hope to have at least one more foray into the wild. I’m always inspired to “get busy” when thoughts turn to “how many hills do my knees have left in them.” All good for now. Hopefully another 25-30 years would be nice. Stay tuned for another walk. Later.
After 4 glorious days, I’ve called it quits. No excuses, no regrets, I apparently just don’t get the fascination with hiking for more than a week in the back country. The views are few and far between, and honestly, they look the same. The bugs bite the same, the trail looks the same, and dropping a deuce in the woods just isn’t convenient. Crawling around in tent every night is not so bad, but the stearns and foster is better.
I hiked to here, right here…not exactly, but close
Here are the stats for the hike… 49 miles, 13,500 of elevation, approximately 100 little black fly bites, 10 mosquito bites, 2 manhattan’s, 2 glasses of wine, one awesome hanger steak, and one Saint Bernard (Bruno).
Bruno is the 11th male Saint Bernard mascot since the opening of the Timberline in 1936. There have been 9 female Saint Bernards over the years. Brunos’s owner, Ms. Nyland, has trained Bruno to be very calm with all the guests.
Manhattans #1 and Mt HoodTimberline lodge (The Overlook from the Shining)Awesome gas fire thing with anvil. Hanger Steak with wine #1Inside of Timberline lodge. Built in 1936-37. All solid log construction. Fire placeTimberline
Almost a marathon. Thinking back on day, I find it full of wonder, beauty, and self realization. Slightly overstated, but mostly true. The vistas from the top of Indian Peak were impressive. The flowers and butterflies were also memorable. The self realization, although not unpredictable, rubbed me the wrong way. As in chafe. Some places are worse than others. I know. Been there, doing that.
After breakfast at the hotel, DeDe dropped me off at the trailhead. A hug n kiss and “get going yer burning daylight” and I was off and running. The trail teasingly starts easy, but it’s true personality is quickly unveiled and the gloves come off. 4300 feet of elevation in about 8 miles. After about 2 more miles on the 4000 ft plateau, I decide the first day is done and I set up camp.
Near the topFirst camp
Horrible night of tossing and turning. Finally fell asleep around 11pm. The next morning was interesting. My back acted up and I had to hobble around slowly for about 80 geriatric minutes. Sound fun yet?!
Someone left the water onTeakettle spring
Something really special about finding a pipe with water coming out of it in the middle of the woods. Something more special would be a flush toilet in the woods. Thats about it for day 1.
Thought of the day: “Flow”. The idea of flow is a concept that lends itself well to marathon running or long distance hiking. Its a release of all expectations, desires, and accomplishments. It’s being one with the task at hand, and a removal of sorts at the same time. Think of being in the midst of a demanding physical endeavor where the demons are coming out of the closet. Flow is your friend, confidant, and drinking buddy. It will remove your consciousness from the situation and alow you to glide along without awareness of the large blister on the inside of your left heel. So next time you’re over at the In-laws, tap into “flow” and just glide along. If that doesn’t work, there’s always whiskey.
07-16-23 Day 0. At the Columbia river. No hiking today. Ms DeDe and I drove to Cascade locks, OR and spent the night at the Best Western.
View from our room-Bridge of the Gods.
It was a night of restless sleep as I anticipated the upcoming departure the next day. Fear of the unknown is a powerful emotion. Having stomped through the forests on numerous occasions, I’m well acquainted with what can go wrong. So my dreams are a merry go round of “what if I run out of(s)” and “what if I crap my shorts.” It takes a little misery to make a memory some senile person said, so I guess I’ll take it in stride.
Training mishaps and a shoe line-up change. Walking on a nice trail, minding my own business, and along come a couple of bicyclists. I step off the trail to let them pass. Without looking down, I step up to get back on trail, and a mysterious force halts my right leg. My brain isn’t immediately registering the right leg difficulties, so I pull up harder. After three times of looking like I’m trying to kick start a motorcycle, jamming my left thumb into the ground, the right shoe/foot are free. The shoe carnage is soon realized. “wonderful” I say as I check for more damage. My left thumb hurts from jamming it, and so does the back of my head.
Adding training weight
At the start of my training hike I found a nice 10 lb rock. I unwittingly thought “what a great way to add some weight, I’ll just put it on the top of my pack…what could go wrong!?” I found out what could go wrong. When I snagged my shoe and fell forward, so did mr rock. Right into the back of my head.
This wasn’t the end of the training hike pain and suffering. At about mile 10 (total hike was 13 miles), my Morton’s neuroma (self diagnosis) really acted up and I started limping. My left toes (toes 3 and 4) usually become numb after a few miles. I’ve accepted the fact that hiking=pain, and to just “be one with the pain” and “embrace the suck.” Its not all bad. Just 49%. Just kidding, kinda. Anyway(s)….why do people end with an S? Back to the feet. After 10 miles, my left ball-of-foot really started barking, but there were still 3 more miles to go. I hobbled back to the truck, and decided I would have to change back to my Hoka Stinsons. The only shoe that doesn’t cause my neuroma to act up like a 5 year old that doesn’t get his afternoon nap. The Stinsons do cause other issues though. No shoe is perfect. They all have their weaknesses.
The high stack squishy stinson
Lastly, here are some pictures of my resupply boxes and a pile of gear. All this gear adds up to roughly $3000.
What compels us to attempt ostensibly ridiculous and improbable tasks? “…although nothing is certain, anything is possible”-Eduardo Staynch. Each year, my desire to push some type of new limit weasels its way into my life. The battle between my comfortable, lazy self, gets tossed about by my restless and adventurous self. I’m a Gemini, so you understand the two battling it out upstairs. I romanticize about hiking 25-30 mile days until the harsh realities of chafing, foot pains, and cramping muscles bring me back to reality. Maybe this trip will be different. Washington to California on the PCT starts 07-17-23.
Whats different this year? I’m going to concentrate on staying on trail longer, with more mileage between resupply stops. I’m starting with Altra Olympus 4s with just the original insoles. I’ll be reducing weight in other areas so I can carry more food. I’ll also be carrying a 3oz collapsible bucket and soap to wash myself and clothes on trail (so much for reducing weight).
If all goes as planned, I’ll post day 1 the evening of 7-17-23. Stay tuned….
The quick story: SOBO White pass to Oregon, 8 days, a whole lot of deep forest walking, and a few glorious views.
Goat Rocks
Plenty of time to reflect on life’s great mysteries on this hike. Many, many miles (about 120) staring at an 18” wide, dirt trail with no views and only subtle changes to flora. I began questioning my sanity and reasoning for attempting such an endeavor. What’s the purpose of walking, camping, struggling with up hills and of course, pooping in the woods. The reduction of luxuries to the very basics does make you appreciate just about everything. With that, let me give you a day in the life of a thru hike….
0500 AM- wake up from sometimes a night of tossing and turning because you did too many miles the day before.
0600 AM – have everything packed up (hopefully not raining) and start walking. Start slow or risk pulling a muscle. No food yet.
0700 AM -notice your shirt smells really bad. Im sure its “just” the shirt. Cross a stream or spring and fill up with enough water to get you to the next water hole. Keep walking…only 18 more miles to go.
0900 AM – walk into a designated campground and notice a bunch of dirty people standing around a guy setting up an awning and food. TRAIL MAGIC! Notice lots of dirty hands grabbing various things and wonder why more people don’t get sick on trail. Have a nearly rotten peach, can of soda, and sit for an awkward conversation. 5 minutes later, get up and leave.
1200 Noon— hike up a large mountain about 5 miles. Notice that the NOBO hikers going downhill are very happy.
2 PM—- Get to top of hill (3000 feet elev gain). Find place off trail to take of totally sweat soaked shirt, and let dry in sun
Top of Old Huckleberry Mtn
3pm— after drying out, start hiking down mountain. Notice NOBO hikers arent that enthusiastic anymore (they’re going up).
4 pm— Get to spot next to lake and have a 3 serving rice and chicken dinner.
Lunch time
5pm— Full of food and energy. Hike fast for another 6 miles to camp to compete a 23 mile day. At camp clean up with water to remove deet and sunscreen. Climb into sleeping bag and listen to book on tape. Take an ambien…..
Rinse and repeat for eight days and then arrive at Cascade Locks in Oregon. Its been 6 days since this hike ended and my feet are still numb, but getting better.
On a positive note, the bugs weren’t too bad for most of the hike, I ate enough food and felt good most of the time, and it didn’t really rain at all. The last big positive is that after 7 years of PCT hikes, I can say I finally complete an entire state (Washington-sans the 2 mile section from north rainy pass trailhead to south rainy pass trailhead). Heres a few more pics of the hike:
Breakfast combo #1!Mt Adams and an unknown hiker (carl?)Mt Hood in OregonA saddle in a tree—??The ResTypical trail near Yakima Reservation Almost to OregonBridge of the Gods-over the Columbia riverCascade Locks, OR
Looking over the photos and memories, I’m reminded of why we do hard things. It takes a measure of misery to make a memory (can’t remember who came up with that little gem), and times of struggle certainly leave their mark. The difficulties and pain of the moment leave soon enough, and we’re left with positive vestiges that will give some future comfort or satisfaction. Its difficult, sometimes, to see the forest through the trees, and to see the accomplishments through the numb feet and aching back. As we live and struggle there is no alternative. To quit and sit is to wither and die. Rest, yes. Recover, of course. But to succumb to falling from the horse, and allowing it to walk away into the pasture with no rider is to waste what we have left.
So what’s next? I cant see beyond my numb feet right now. I’ve been thinking more about climbing tall peaks than forest walks.
Miles today 15. Miles on day 16-15 miles. Miles from Mexico 179
Stayed in the “Indian” room at the Idyllwild Inn for 2 nights. My new shoes arrived in the afternoon on Tuesday the 24th. After wearing them for 15 rocky miles, I’m rethinking my decision. The cushion is nice on flats, but my feet, ankles, and knees are taking a beating with all the movement. I’ll give it hen another 13 mile’s tomorrow and maybe slide back into idyllwild for something else. Mr blister is turning into a callus so maybe back to altras? Its only money.
End of day 16– punishing. Not only were the 16 miles some of the most difficult I’ve ever hiked , the new Hokas found new and interesting ways to torment the dogs. Several areas on my feet were competing for “least improved” and “least likely to complete a thru hike.” With 5 blisters on the left foot, and 3 on the right, I’m considering calling it. The battle has lost its romance. I know, I know..” how can you leave the excitement of sleeping on the dirt?” “ Poopin under the stars.”
Early on day 16Infamous poodle dog bush. The poison oak of the desertNearing the top. 8600 feet. Started at 4700 feet. Palm Springs valleyDrinking beer with other hikers
So thats it. I’m thinking my next hike will be from White Pass, WA south to Oregon. North of Stevens pass sounds good too. I would have enjoyed going farther this trip, but the costs are just not making sense. I’ll regroup and do another section starting in Washington in a month or so .
Four wonderful days of comfortable beds, toilets, and all the hot food I could stand. I think I’ve gained back the few pounds I lost during the first 152 miles of the trail. Most all of the hikers I have routinely leap frogged with on the trail have come and gone. If my new shoes work well, i should be able to start catching up. If the new shoes don’t work well, I’ll have more decisions to make.
Ive swapped out lots of small gear pieces, and sent a lot hone. Its difficult to know what to carry. What if I get cold, what if its too hot, how much food, where can i buy food, do i need a full roll of toilet paper? Then there are the gear issues. My pack squeaks. My sleeping bag got a small hole in it. Socks get holes in them. I think it’s important to remember this is a hiking or moving trip as opposed to a camping trip. Only the necessities. Lastly, its all about the feet. Ive seen so many rolled ankles. I usually tell people, “ I don’t always roll a joint, but when I do, its usually an ankle.” knock on wood…ankles are all good with no injuries (other than blisters).
Idyllwild at nightTheater where I saw new Dr Strange movieSeth and Ed..Idyllwild wood company is looking for some wood splitersDinner with Emily,mike,parker,wiley, florian, and milanEveryone pitching inDirty hikers
Thats it for idyllwild. Hopefully. Never really know until its 50 miles behind. On the trail tomorrow. Up to 9000 ft + on Mt Jacinto.
First, lets get the ugly out of the way. The unrelenting heat of the past 10 days, and possibly a poor sock choice, has really tested my feet. The right foot has made few complaints, but the left has made a habit of whining every chance it can. Back on about day 6 or 7, a roly poly blister blossomed. After jabbing it with a needle, draining the lymphatic fluid (I had to look it up) , and letting it dry over night, I thought my worries were over. Mr lefty was just getting started. Another blister formed in the same spot a couple of days later, and then for the main event, a bigger one right in the middle of the forefoot. The picture doesn’t really show the big one too well.
They’ll be better in no time
I’ll be taking a few days off in Idyllwild. Walking feels like constantly stepping on a jagged rock. This is were thru hiking gets sort of expensive. The hotel rooms in mountain towns of SoCal get pricey during the weekends. So I’ll be staying off my feet as much as possible, and then getting back at it in a few days.
Here are a few pics leading up to Idyllwild…
Cistern in middle of desert. Dry as my heat rashLate evening hikingNear 100F here. Sign to “Mike’s Place”
Rave reviews about Mike’s desert oasis…look closely at the next few pictures. I swear there were zombies lurking somewhere. The hikers must have been smoking the devils lettuce to give it a double thumbs up review. Here are the pics, you decide.
Should I go in the gate?Im sure i heard some scratching from the insideUmm, nopeNope, nope
And finally, a few pics from Idyllwild…
Red kettle restaurant…no wafer thin after dinner mintIdyllwild Mayor’s birthday celebration. The mayor is a golden retriever. This is on 5-21-22.
Miles for all 3 days- 43. Miles from Mexico 120. Camp 7 pic –
I know Im repeating myself, but its hot here folks. I feel like a big water filter. Its difficult to get enough down so you can just sweat it out. Sooo many little reptiles skittering across the trail, I’m surprised I haven’t stepped on one. Saw one diamond back rattler. They’re fat. He or she was several feet away and slithering father away. I saw eagle rock today. The natives back in the day used the area for ceremonies. Just cows there now….its part of some really big ranch. Here are some pics from the past three days…
Noodles,pasta,spices,buffalo chicken…the bombThese fellas are everywhereNew insoles vs oldResupply and lunchTrail of broken hearts and signsPart of ranchEagle rock and mr shadowTrail near warner springs
As I’m writing this, I’m at 4400 feet listening to the light breeze ruffle my tent. The moon has yet to rise, the stars are out in mass, and my stomach is protesting my latest concoction. The inreach (GPS) is casting a blinking green dot of light on the inside of my tent. Green means it communicating with the satellite. 50 feet north of me is “Mr T” inside his tent. I always introduce my self as I walk up to camp. It was dark when I arrived here, and throwing down your tent in such a confined area requires cooperation. The appeal of thru hiking is romanticized by many, but the act of doing one is a harsh reality. Just because its harsh and difficult does not mean its not worthy. There are many special experiences that happen on trail that cannot be accurately articulated. After saying all that, man I wish I had a 22oz ice cold beer right now! Random, I know. But its my blog! I think its time to call it a wrap.
The Wandering Boot 